….

Tuesday, May 10th was probably the most enigmatic. Trend Unions, Lidewig Edelkoort, held a presentation dedicated to trend forecasting for fall 2012 and winer 2013. What will be in fashion and what the consumer wants are very important and no one can predict the future. Only a team of highly knowledgeable fashion industry workers can really break the silence in their research and skill pertaining to this. This group is responsible for consulting, holding seminars, exhibitions, and forging magazines. They “travel to share messages with people everywhere” says Edelkoort. They want to share, explain, and interact with people.

Lidewij Edlekoort

First, Lidewig Edelkoor began to describe the “problem” of retail and the shopping experience. With the Internet and technology bombarding our lives it is easier for us to shop online and ignore the brick and mortar delights. Hence, Edelkoor proposed the “Reinvention of Retail for the 21st Century”. They believe the industry needs to “get customers back into the stores”. Thus, they have come up with 20 concepts of what a store should be and will be according to social, personal, and economical needs. She also coined the term “mood marketing” and the need to re-establish the needs of consumers and invent a NEW surrounding. It seems they feel that people are going to return to their natural states, war worldly elements such as water, earth, rocks, and technology are going to prevail over our retail and shopping experiences. I guess I now have the upper hand with this knowledge. Take a look of what 2013 will hold:

Sanctuary: A place of worship, quality, and a calm peacefulness. Contemporary, plush, industrial, and texture.

Spiritual Experience: A light airy feel. Pale color palette, forming shapes, meditation and white.

Eco: A place of sustainable style and life. Bio textiles, clean energy sources, contemporary, felting, natural/non-dyed, subtle colors, linen, flannels, and knits. “Connection to animals doesn’t have to have animalistic qualities”.

 Re-Luxury: Luxury will reach out to other domains. It’s becoming tacky to show off. Humble, cashmere, contemporary, beautiful amazing quality, and quite colors with hints of green

 Streaming: For a person who spends more money on technology. Futuristic, contemporary, gadgets, urban, designing fashion for technology, sneaker design, athletic, silver, super lightweight fabrics, jackets, and zippers.

[If find Streaming to be quite interesting because technology is growing vastly. The fact that people will and certainly already are asking for clothing to mix with it is somewhat scary. Technology has taken over paperbacks, communication, visual aspects, marketing, and now fashion? I wonder exactly how fashion will be impacted through technology it’s a whole new world.]

Monomind: The Shirt. Efficiency, quality, functionality, give them everything, environment looks like shirting, and shirting prevails.

On-Line Shopping: Trend that is important. Visual, linear, graphic, black and white, and online tailoring.

Boyfriend: Androgynous is favorable. Suiting for him and her. 30’s70’s colors, casual materials, tweed, some dull, accessories: notebooks.

General Store: Embracing the “Pioneer General Store”. Sturdy cloths, humble environment, comfortable, food, yardage sold in stores, lumberjack, classic colors, and all American denim.

Army and Navy: Culturally relevant. Function, innate sense of style, sturdy, cheap, reliable, camouflage colors and prints, army green, great detail, nature, natural blue, uniform, and structure.

Vagabond: Poverty/Homelessness. Free sense of style, pilling, pulling, mixing and match, hobo, dirty, ripped clothing, recycled, patchwork, and toxic waste colors

Do it yourself: Finical crisis. Putting all elements together, trash colors, vibrant, unique, one of a kind, threads, yarns, embroidery, and Japanese influence.

Caravan: Ethnic cleansing to focus on local regional products lead to minority groups. Combine textiles from around the world. Nomadic, gypsies, rich color, and exotic/bold patterns.

Scarves: Sign of status and great design. Simple, prints, flowing influence, narrative, humor, men and woman.

Bloom: Magazines prevail. Have their own store; environment looks like nature, flowers, prints, arts and crafts, kimono, Japan culture, stitching, hair fibers, graphic and abstract.

Theater: Drama is created in everyday life. Velvet, heavy in history and culture. Pirate like, Haute Couture like, costume, modern people, circus, late 19th century, dramatic, staging oneself, greens, yellows, burgundies, and reds.

Moving Image: Graphic projections of objects. Immaterial, movies, cinema, blurred movement, diffused patterns, flowing smudged makeup, black and white, deep night blues, Paris, emotion is fashion imagery being shown, and floating

Noir: Everything is black. Design, items, chic, classic, extreme texture, shapes, and over stitching.

Bordello: Lounge and browse all together. Luxury, beauty, sex, imagination, desire, eroticism, sexual art, fragrance, ribbons, jewelry, romantic, powdery pinks, purples, pastel, and detail.

Marriage: A trend and its beauty. Style, attention, all white, dressy, contemporary, gold icing, flowers, creative, privacy, and intimacy.

Another great topic mentioned was the emergence of fashion movies for marketing. They feel that this is going to explode in the industry. We have already witnessed this in many ways such as H&M’s collaboration with Lanvin. I have to ask myself the question as to why consumers are responding so well to these fashion movies and why they will be successful. I think it is because the consumers are constantly bombarded with visual stimuli which is boring to them and the industry needs a more creative outlet to reach to their clients.

Madonna H&M 2007

Prada SS 2011

Students conclude another semester and have been endowed with the most paramount information. Holding true to this, most students succeed as they master their art. Each student differs as they either continue their education or move on with their profession (Most with dreams to conquer have succeeded). Already in the industry, “Professionals” get something even more valuable to their vocation—Experience.

With experience comes the upmost knowledge anyone can have to master his or her occupation.

Fashion students just had a window of opportunities as they came face-to-face with quality knowledge. The Academy simply didn’t stop short at classroom discussions and hours of research and homework. The department offered a sumptuous week filled with some of the most memorable industry information most could ever imagine to learn. A carefully planned schedule held positions for top names and events such as Nathalie Rykiel, Cathy Horyn, The spring fashion show, Laure du Pavilion, and Trend Union’s Lidewij Edlekoort.

Wednesday, May 4th marked the start of the “miraculous” fashion week. Cathy Horyn a fashion critic for the New York Times and Nathalie Rykiel President of the Label Sonia Rykiel, held a symposium on side of Gladys Perint Palmer. Answering Gladys’ and audience questions enticed us all and gave way to an amazing outcome. Useful information, opinions and humor engulfed the hour. Cathy’s Topics included personal thoughts on issues directed towards Galliano, Dior,  Alexander McQueen, and the argument of fashion being art. To make the symposium much more interesting Nathalie Rykiel met personal topics of sex and life as she jokingly spoke of her own. We could not have appreciated the sheer fact that she is successful yet quite humble.  To add to her professional input she talked about important issues such as “Brand Identity” and the practicalities that accompanies have to overcome to be successful in the industry today.

Left: Nathalie Rykiel/ Right: Cathy Horyn

Apart from the symposium a select few got to identify with the duel as they toured the halls of the schools and met with select students. To top off the day I got to share an even closer look at Cathy Horyn’s career in a smaller informal meeting: A meeting where students really got to dig deep. She in answered many question students had some of which:

Q: Are there were any changes that should be seen in the industry?

CH: “I would love to see elements of journalism don’t change it’s reporting. I want people to start reporting in the industry who know how to read balance sheets and how companies work” She said that people should be more “traditional” in their reporting. She also added, “Ask hard questions” and “a good reporter and writer is one who finds stuff out”.  Cathy is known for her outspoken opinions and steers away from “beating around the bush”.

Q: What is the difference between a journalist and a fashion critic?

CH: A fashion critic is “both honest with criticism but respectful” She also added that she has freedom of what she writes about and has to be “selective” about it.

For most people the type of knowledge that Cathy has is so important because it’s honest and right to the point. Not only is she working in the industry she sees the pros and cons of it. From her answers I gathered that she thinks more people need to know the business side of the industry. She said she thinks that this aspect is very interesting to her: How people run a business. On this matter she also feels that companies need to be in the “know” of fashion criticism and what people want. Companies need to create a community that consumers can recognize that relates to them and their image. Things such as websites should emulate a companies product and their virtues. Also, she feels that fashion journalism has taken the “wrong” turn as people are not being one hundred percent truthful in the sense that they are not reporting fashion in the traditional sense; people are afraid to ask the hard questions to expose someone and simply “finding stuff out”.

Thursday, May 5th was a day filled with events. In the morning the presentation by Laure Du Pavilion took place and addressed many issues pertaining to embroidery, Haute Couture, its existence, the price and the scarcity it faces in fashion. Unfortunately, I was not able to attend the event but I heard it held quite an impression to the students and opened a whole new identity to the couture luxury world. In my opinion probably hit topics of what Haute Couture really is to people in the industry and to its consumers.

Later that day I made may way to a call time to help dress backstage at the student fashion show. 16 mini collections and 23 students had showcased their talent that day.Its amazing what kind of rush one gets when under pressure and managing outfits in record time. I always find all the fashion design students so talented and so “tired”. Also, I found myself speaking with many of people who said “O! I helped with that”. I counted the amount of people that referenced to a knitted jacket that was featured designed by Jannika Lilja. I counted a team around 4 people. When I took a closer look at the garment I realized that there was so much heart, sweat and detail that went into it I couldn’t help but feel stress.  How could one not appreciate such dedication to the love of fashion? As well how could one not notice the sheer appreciation that every student has for another as they dedicate their own precious time? At the moment I felt a greatness of community, unity, and honor for all of the fashion students, which I am so proud to be a part of. This enthusiasm was evident through the entire event. The show was a massive success.

Designed by Jannika Lilja

Another one of my favorite aspects of the fashion show was the jewelry design. I worked beside the dresser for the model wore this masterful necklace. Not only is it aesthetically beautiful but it was extremely heavy. I guess thats the price to be paid for some if they acquire good quality and a beautiful work of art. A collaboration of Clothing and jewelry by Inez-Marie Galvez and Rachele Barreto.

Written by: Katarina Farley

Trend Union Fall 2012/Winter 2013- presented by Lidewij Edlekoort

Ah, it’s trend forecasting time! Wait… isn’t it always trend forecasting time? Yes, that’s the nature of the game, and according to Trend Union (the most renowned trend forecasting company in the world… which means they are more than likely spot on about everything) there is a marriage trend happening. Which means, you guessed it, an all white color palette (sneak peek into Spring 2013)! It seems to be all about kids wanting to get married, and re-building a community. The sensibility is very intimate, and custom. It’s not so much about perfection, but about creativity, purity, and commitment. This bridal theme becomes very contemporary when it translates to fashion design, textiles, interiors, and lifestyle. We will see a lot of silky woolens, glazed textures, and lace. We will also see a lot of embroidery- especially flowers. The inside of boutiques will be personal, cozy, and very private- appointment only please!

All white trend for Spring 2013

What I find so fascinating about Trend Union is the way they tie fashion, architecture, interiors, and lifestyle together. One of the topics was about shopping, and re-inventing retail in the 21st century. This covered global fashion trends in color, fabrics, patterns, silhouettes, and retail.

The presentation for Interior design and color for A/W 2012/13 was so stimulating from a fashion design standpoint. In my opinion, fashion and interior design go hand in hand- one inspires the other. So, for the interior design portion, Ms. Edelkoort focused on textiles. It’s all about innovation in textiles. Here’s the breakdown for each presentation:

Shopping: Re-inventing Retail for the 21st Century


Shopping Sanctuary

–       reflection

–       handkerchief silhouette

–       focus on ideas

–       raw-like materials, minimal, stark

–       subtle, dark makeup

–       texture

Spiritual Experience

–       soft light, soft neon colors

–       shapes are forming, and comforting

Eco

–       recycling

–       antlers, wood, creating new store interiors

–       animals- taxidermy

–       local flavor, color, and environment

–       sustainability- natural fibers

Re-luxury

–       luxury will be able to bring well-being back again

–       it’s about taking care of you, curing you

–       dense curtains

–       travel becomes a pleasure

Streaming

–       futuristic

–       shape

–       technology- high tech fastenings

–       color will be designed by light- bright, sporty colors as well

Monomind

–       men and women will dress the same- both allured by the crisp architecture of the shirt

Army and Navy

–       camouflage

–       metal, industrial glass, rust

–       canvas-like material

–       red, blue, gold

–       performance and style

General Store

–       flannel

–       colors are as traditional as they get

–       warm and wooden environment

Vagabond

–       adventurous type

–       new sense of bartering and recycling

–       clothes will be recycled, over-dyed, distressed, and re-assembled

–       consumer takes things into his/her own hands- home made sensibility done in luxurious fabrics

Scarves

–       scarves are deciding to stage a comeback

–       worn over the head, used as a sleeve, a dress

–       printed, silk, square, lightweight

Bloom

–       rekindling a taste for arts and crafts

–       nature, flowers, embroidery

Theatre

–       dressing becomes dressing up

–       colors full-blooded and dramatic

–       textiles play a big role

Moving Image

–       future dedicated to moving image

–       an ever changing consumer

–       light and shadow

Noir

–       black

–       angular, diamond shapes

–       interesting surfaces, texture

Bordello

–       old fashioned, old luxury

–       sensuous eroticism- everything speaks sex

Talking Textiles in Lifestyles 2013

“… if we don’t react fast the whole knowledge of textiles will go.”

Creating little houses and sanctuaries…

Hut

–       tucked away, retreat, hidden, compact

–       raising sheep, and creating your own yarns and textiles

–       wool is boiled, pressed- compressed into contemporary form

–       heavy knitwear, large needles, assembled by hand

–       emotional relationship b/t local sources, the designer, and the final product

–       local colors found in nature

–       crochet fantasy

Chalet

–       crisp and cold winter translated in playful material

–       organic comfort

–       pale pastel colors

–       sheep skin

–       powdery

–       traditional tweeds, oversized knitwear, tightly woven fabric

–       seventies colors: yellow and brown

–       felted- brighter colors

Green House

–       lush, happy plants

–       darker arts and crafts- felting

–       shades of green with brown- blues, greens, purples

–       floral patterns from past and present- jacquard, cut yarn, embroidery

–       outdoor lights come inside

Atelier

–       experimental- workshop tools

–       bold colors clashing on purpose, abstract shapes, geometric, playful

–       mechanical and engineered orange and blue

–       recycling materials to make sculptural forms in bizarre colors- pinks, blues, orange

Bubble

–       futuristic

–       solar technology and wind turbines

–       transparent weaves, mirroring effects, architectural, robotic

–       industrial textiles- stretchy

–       aqua tones, soft pastels

–       mother of pearl finishes- delicate

Sanctuary

–       living a more spiritual life

–       soothing textiles

–       softly tinted, calm colors

–       giving soul to design

–       pebbles- luminous and modest- simply being there

–       light weight felt, pixelised quilting, minimal

Shack

–       primitive-ethnic

–       going back to our roots

–       fossils and bones- archaic

–       thick leather

–       indigo dye- patchwork with endless shades of blue

Nest

–       knitting, weaving, basket making, concentric forms

–       twig colors

–       small structures within larger structures

–       bamboo, plants, grass

–       obsessive mathematical formula

–       exuberant movements

Bungalow

–       50’s inspired

–       flat, organized, boxy

–       safety of living in a box

–       geometric precision

–       yellows, blues, greens

–       art deco meats African- intense colors- green, aqua, brown

–       spectator sports- tennis- sportswear colors

Club

–       masculine textiles and colors

–       re-defining the club chair- giving it a feminine twist

–       the softer male sensibility

–       warm colors

–       light and portable pieces

Caravan

–       collecting things

–       crafted, decorated, intense sense of folklore

–       local culture and flavor

–       bright colors- yellow, purple

–       faded

Folly

–       ultimate impossible dream

–       dilapidated, dignity, eccentric

–       delicate inlays

–       semi-precious stone inlays

–       pale tones

–       imagining our surroundings- narrative landscape- oddities and curiosities

–       exotic ingredients conspire

 

Written by: Katarina Farley

Put Nathalie Rykiel, Gladys Perint Palmer, and Cathy Horyn in a room together… and you’ve got quite the discussion. Put them on stage, and you’ve got a show. Yet, who knew I would walk away with so much insight into the world of fashion… as well as Nathalie’s sex life and lunch hour? Well, it made for an interesting conversation, and it was a perfect ice- breaker… in order to get to the real topic: fashion. One of the first questions pointed at Cathy Horyn had the name Galliano in it. The audience seemed to hold their breath for a moment while Cathy chose her words carefully. See, that’s the thing about Cathy- she skips all that nonsense of hype surrounding a subject- and get’s straight to answering the real question. Anyway, when it came to getting the full report on John Galliano, Cathy spoke about the complexity of the situation- and wondered how truthful he would be if interviewed. She hoped that the story would, someday, be fully reported. There were so many people involved at the house of Dior that undoubtedly knew the whole story, and might have known some contributing factors. Cathy’s point was- Galliano’s one statement was incomplete. This lead to the topic of the great Alexander McQueen. Cathy has interviewed McQueen many times, and wonders, after his death, if she asked him enough questions… or even the right ones.

So… Galliano was banned from Dior, and Cathy has been banned from shows. How does Cathy feel about being shunned from certain fashion shows? “There’s a lot to write about in fashion…”-  meaning plenty of designers, plenty of shows, and an abundance of stories to be told. Enough said.

The next topic: identity. The identity of a brand, a designer, your customer, your reader… and finding your voice amidst it all. Nathalie Rykiel was asked if she thought it was important to diversify her brand in order to survive. She answered: not in order to survive. She really stressed the importance of sticking to your identity. Nathalie also said that you must know your customer. What kind of person is she/he? What are her values? Where does she travel, what does she eat? The Sonia Rykiel woman has a very precise identity: she is a free woman, sensual, a hard worker, she travels, she’s aware, involved in society, and she has a sense of humor (which is imperative in the world of fashion if you ask me).  She also mentioned that being practical is necessary. Her men’s line was not doing well, so she cut it… bottom line is you cannot be all over the place.

Now, on the journalism side, Cathy’s identity is her voice. How did she find her voice? Well, she explained that it was a layering process. Her voice was much different in the 80’s than it is now- simply because the world has changed significantly in the past thirty years. Now, Cathy’s focus is to be clear in her writing. People don’t have as much time or patience anymore to read long reports. Today is so much about blogs (Nathalie has one) and social networks. The structure is changing just like it did with the start of the Internet, it never stops, it just keeps moving. But Cathy is such a great reporter, and part of being a journalist is about adapting to change, which she has proven to be successful at.

Now, to bring the discussion to a close… are museum exhibitions that showcase fashion garments considered art? Is fashion really an art form? In Cathy’s opinion it’s debatable… and a somewhat sensitive topic. For example, the Balenciaga exhibit at the SFMOMA showcases the precise work of a master designer… but Cathy wouldn’t necessarily call it art. On the other hand, there is also the McQueen exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NY. One can really see the evolution of tailoring, the precise attention to detail, and the stories being told. For Cathy, what really makes this exhibition impressive is the fact that McQueen accomplished so much before he was forty. He thought about things artistically, and he was always trying to modify something in the world. In Fall 2000 McQueen had his asylum show in tandem with the Royal Academy Apocalypse art show. Cathy watched McQueen think the way an artist does.

Speaking of fashion as an art form, I have to say that the seniors really went for it this spring. It was, in my opinion, the most forward and innovative show to date (at least since I arrived at the Academy of Art in Fall 2008). I was a dresser backstage, which means I didn’t really see the show, but I did get up close and personal with the garments. Amazing! The fabric manipulation, the craftsmanship, the innovative cutting techniques, the colors… all very impressive. Nathalie said in the symposium that art, unlike fashion, has the time to seduce its audience. That’s true, but I find that the time leading up to a runway show… waiting and waiting for it to start… and then bam! The music comes on, and out strut the models. I, personally, find that quite enthralling and seductive.

A latex look by Margaret Yoha

Oh Lesage….

Attending the Lesage presentation was like taking a whole course in one hour. It was fantastic. It was factual, informative, fascinating, and breathtaking. The presentation started with a chronology of Haute Couture that started in 1858 with Charles Frederick Worth, and went on through the roaring twenties, the glamorous thirties, the new look (Dior ’47), the new generation of couturiers of the fifties (Balenciaga, Givenchy), the RTW boom of the sixties, the seventies where it was all about the shows and presentations, the 80’s rebirth of haute couture, the 90’s minimalism, and the 21st century of hype and globalization. That goes to show how long Lesage Haute Couture Embroidery has been around. Masters of craft existed even before fashion became a business. Let’s break it down into the different categories of haute craftsmanship:

Costume jewelers

–       responsible for creating costume jewelry from non-precious stones, as well as making buttons

–       the craftsmen often have to invent brand new construction techniques

 Feather workers and flower makers

–       only one left in Paris: Lemarie Guillet

Hat makers and milliners

–       the hat makers are mostly men- they make the molds for the hats

–       the milliners are mostly women- they construct and sew the hats

Boot makers

–       only one left in Paris- Raymond Massaro- does all shoes for Chanel Haute Couture

Fabric pleaters

–       20 fabric pleaters left in 2010

Glove makers

–       can only produce 5 pairs a day because of the intricate attention to detail

–       Maison Agnelle

Embroiderers

–       6 main embroidery companies left in Paris- House of Lesage is one of them

Out of the 6 embroidery ateliers… what makes Lesage unique? What I realized most from the presentation is the relationship they have with their customers and suppliers. Whether it be the Pope, or Karl Lagerfeld, the House of Lesage truly understands the vision of each client.

The most important thing to Lesage is maintaining the know-how- passing down the knowledge and skills to their students at the Ecole Lesage (School of Lesage). It is important to maintain the know-how in order to maintain the quality of craftsmanship that Lesage is known for. It is challenging- especially in a world where the time frame to produce a garment/collection is getting shorter and shorter. It’s true… couture may be a dying breed. But, in a world filled with fast fashion, the haute couture business is doing quite well. It has made a comeback like it did in the 80’s, and in my opinion, I believe it will continue to flourish. Just take a look at the Chanel empire- talk about longevity. There is hope… with the help of the Parisian government. But the bottom line is: Embroidery and couture have a long history together- if one goes, so does the other. After all, what’s couture without embroidery?

You may be wondering what goes on behind the scenes at the Lesage Atelier- take a look at this video.

:: Laura Putulowski

For the past week and a half, my days have been blurring. Is this what the real world is like? I can hardly keep track of what month it is, let alone whether it’s a Tuesday or a Friday. There has been an overwhelming amount of information being thrown at me and my fellow fashion students, and I’m still processing. The symposium with Cathy Horyn and Nathalie Rykiel was interesting – much more interesting than I was expecting. Nathalie had a delightful wit and easy glamour about her that I’ve only ever seen in French women. I particularly loved her comments about sex and love and how without them, is life even worth it? This resonated so strongly with me because it prodded at something that I have been struggling with lately. Is this industry, which seems to be all consuming, worth it? Is it worth the long hours away from loved ones; is it worth the constant attention, the bickering, the petty jealousies? The memorization of who is who, and who is working for who, and who we like and who we don’t like and who we don’t like because they like who we like.

Why do we do it?

For Nathalie, the answer seemed obvious. It’s in her blood.
(And I don’t mean that in just a “familial obligation” kind of way.)

For me… well, I’m still figuring that out.

The next day, at the presentation by Laure du Pavillon, my question changed. She spoke of haute couture and luxury and the dying art of craftsmanship. There were once hundreds or thousands of highly specialized, highly skilled craftsmen working for the couture houses in Paris, but the number is dwindling every year. She lamented this fact. I understand, because this was her life for many years. As the artistic director for Christian Lacroix, she worked closely with these specialists who create intricate and detailed and delicate works of (oh yes, I’m going there) art. In my head, though, I kept coming back to a quote by Alber Elbaz that I’ve fallen in love with. “If it’s not edible, it’s not food. If it’s not wearable, it’s not fashion.” Is haute couture wearable? Not even taking into account the delicate nature of such pieces, but is it even right to wear something so expensive?

I ask again, why? I ask again, is it worth it?

Now, I have no problem with spending money on clothes that I like. I’d spend more if I could afford it. But there must be a line drawn somewhere that separates what is socially and morally responsible and what isn’t. Is it okay to buy a dress for the same amount one could feed a family with for a month? A year? Is it okay to spend the same amount of money on a bag as some people would on a car, or a house down payment? If you have enough money to do that, shouldn’t you be doing something… I don’t know… better? Is it right that I read a quote from one of my idols, from the fashion house that got me interested in fashion, and consider puking out of sheer disgust? Of the Chanel resort collection he just presented, Karl Lagerfeld said, “This is about the women of Cannes, women who mix bathing suits with real pearls and diamonds. After all, you can’t wear fakes into the water.”

These are the things I struggle with, when I think about it. Most of the time, I keep myself distracted with pretty colors and sparkly hair things and dresses that just make me look so good. I can’t seem to decide how I feel about the state of consumerism in our country. In theory, I’m against it, but … all the pretty clothes! I want them! And I want other people to have them too. Is that so much to ask fashion industry? We all deserve something pretty to wear.

In regard to the student fashion show, I fear to say too much. I am not a fashion critic, I am not a fashion teacher. Most of the clothes weren’t my taste. There were two or three prints I wanted to take home and one sweater that I seriously contemplated stealing, but for the most part, what I saw was construction. I saw demonstrations of construction skills. Would have aced a technical final, from what I can tell. That’s all I saw though. Construction.

Of course, who am I to critique my fellow students work? I just keep going back to my favorite new quote. Most of it wasn’t wearable. So is it still fashion? 

Well, I’ve never been to many Fashion events in just one week like this. It seemed I’d missed a lot before.

Anyways, last week was really awesome with a chain of the GREAT Fashion Events that happened in Academy of Art University. For those of you who had missed it out, I’m going to write a quick post about the overall of it. There were 3 awesome events that happened last week:

The symposium with honored guests Nathalie Rykiel, and Cathy Horyn, moderated by Gladys Perint Palmer

First, let me tell a little bit about who Nathalie Rykiel and Cathy Horyn are (of course you already knew about Gladys Perint Palmer)

Nathalie Rykiel is the daughter of Sonia Rykiel and also the creative director of the Sonia Rykiel label which has long been a favorite among celebrities, including Kirsten Dunst, Diane Kruger and Sarah Jessica Parker.

Cathy Horyn is an American fashion journalist, working as a critic for The New York Times where she also keeps a highly noted and provocative blog called “On The Runway.” She is only the second New York Times fashion critic, succeeding the late Amy Spindler when Spindler retired in November 2003.

You can check out her blog here: 

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/

At the symposium with AAU students, they discussed about the fashion journalism and fashion blogging. They give a lot of advices and opinions about how the fashion journalists and merchandisers think, look at and report about fashion/style today. Nathalie had mentioned how important about the diversity of brand and its identity. To Cathy, blog is as a diary. Nowadays, people have been using blogs more than newspaper, but she said “paper is still paper, and it’s a serious place.” She advised to all the aspiring journalists to “be a reporter, don’t be a re-blogger.” The symposium was very insightful and thoughtful.

“Fashion is media and media is fashion.” — Cathy Horyn

“Fashion is Applied Art” — by Nathalie Rykiel

Last season, Sonia Rykiel paired with H&M on a range of naughty-but-nice underwear that turned everyone into a bombshell. And here is the clip of a grandiose and fantastic fashion show when Nathalie did the collaboration with H&M for that lingerie line.

And here is the clip:

Laure du Pavillon presentation

The presentations highlighted about Lesage embroidery and how art craftsmanship and fashion luxury are inseparable, and how craftsmanship makes a fashion dream come true.

First, she talked about the fashion history, the beginning of Haute Couture, the history of embroidery, its business, and how it links with Haute Couture. The process of making embroidery business starts from inspiration -> sample -> prototype -> repetition -> production.  It pretty much gave us a lot of information about Haute Couture and embroideries of Lesage, and her experiences at the house of Christian Lacroix, and the company she founded after Lacroix. In 2010, Laure du Pavillon opened her own agency Cœur d’entreprise with two main objectives: transmission of know-how, and linking philanthropy between fashion companies and social charity associations.

We also got to know more about why the prices/costs of craftsmanship/embroideries were so high. “The process of the craftsmanship is as same as Haute Couture, and it’s all about quality of time,” explained Laure.

For more information about the school/courses, visit this website below:

http://www.lesage-paris.com/

BFA Graduation Fashion Show – the collaboration of Fashion Designers and Textile Designers.

There was a lot of simple, yet tailoring collection that’d represented on last Thursday at AAU. Among of them, I’d noticed to the collections that had the special designs and the collaboration between fashion design and textile design. It was very impressed and seemed to take longer to finish than any other collections. The textures of fabrics and the designs worked very well together. It all showed the story of each collection. The students had successfully shown themselves as real designers.

And these are the collections that I think very special and awesome from the show.  

The 1st one was the collection from Brittany Burggraff (BFA Fashion Design) and Wendy Tam (BFA Textile Design) that got inspired by the dark children’s stories, the abstract art of Yellena James. Vintage lingerie, and the Spider and the Fly poem by Mary Howitt and illustrated by Tony DiTerlizzi.

The 2nd one was the collection from Lauren Haut (BFA Fashion Design) and Darrin George (BFA Textile Design) that got inspired by the loss of innocence, 1950s tailoring, 1950s and 1960s wallpaper, traditional prints, and organic shapes.

The 3rd one was the collection from Cynthia Tran (BFA Fashion Design) and Kassie Moody (BFA Textile Design) that got inspired by Ludwig Bemelman’s Madeline children’s books, and1960s silhouettes.

It was an extremly successful show of the graduating students this year! As a fashion design student, the show was also a great inspirational source to me and all of the fashion design students who are not graduating yet or almost graduating. What else can I say? Good Luck to all of You.

Well, it’s about 1:45 AM Tuesday morning the 10th of May, and you’re enjoying a cup of green tea, munching on Nestle CRUNCH Nest Eggs from Easter, and trying to figure out the easiest way to sum up AAU’s Fashion Week. The first thing that pops up into your head is a jingle! Not a specific one, just one you know. This doesn’t really help with your assignment here, but it’s entertaining.

You pick up the April 22/29, 2011 issue of Entertainment Weekly where you spontaneously wrote your notes from GPP’s Q&A w/Nathalie Rykiel & Cathy Horyn. The questions asked were pretty random, and you can’t help but illustrate the whole setup with pictures of each lady. Gladys is of course, sitting in the middle, Nathalie on her right, and Cathy on her left. Now imagine GPP looking back and forth from Cathy, (who’s giving face) and Nathalie (who’s off in her own world thinking about men). If there was dialogue, it would go like this:

Nathalie Rykiel

Gladys Perint Palmer

Cathy Horyn

GPP: We’ve got some great questions to ask you two. First, Cathy, what is the purpose of a journalist?

CH: We just want to give clarity to the world. We journalists just want to be understood! *Smile

GPP: Very good, me too. Now Nathalie, what’s it like to be the CEO of the Rykiel label?

NR: (French accent)……Cold.

GPP: Actually, I’m quite warm. I feel like I look like a burning ember with this red coat on!

CH: I’ve been banned from fashion shows! *Grin

GPP: Well, I was told that I was NOT on the list for a Valentino Couture show. I win!

NR: (French accent) Where is my wine? Where are the men?

CH: Girls just want to have fun! *Ecstatic

And all three ladies get up and start dancing to Cyndi Lauper’s female anthem. Apparently, this was the jingle that was stuck in your head.

So it’s 3:20 AM, same day, same morning, same month. You start to wonder why you spend so much time finding the right media to put into these posts. Maybe listening to music is a distraction? Maybe you have ADHD? Will an Adderall fix everything? Do you even have to ask! Of course it will! It’s finals!

You consider the time, and your bladder tells you it’s time for relief, so away you go!

Soo much better. You start again with a fresh mug of tea, and listen to Rihanna sing about an Umbrella(ella)(ella).

Finally, you pick up the little piece of paper with notes from the Luxury, Fashion, And Craftsmanships presentation with Laure du Pavillon.

You recently found out that she’s the PR Director for Christian Lacroix. The more you know.

Laure du Pavillon

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2008

She quickly went over the beginning of couture, the Grand-Father, Charles Frederick Worth, and then showed slides of all of the categories that are under “craftsmanship”. There’s embroidery, millinery, shoes, costume jewelry etc. Basically anything that’s added to the garment or the look is considered part of this crafty craft, it’s witchcraft.

Speaking of witches, this oldie, but goodie, brings back memories of Dr. Seuss magic spells way before Harry Potter, and offers some costume craftsmanship inspiration. Bzoinks!

So, you look at the clock on the top of your Mac, and it reads Tue 4:53 AM. It can’t be lying, it’s a Mac. ‘One more!’ you tell yourself, ‘one more to go! Let’s do this!’

The tea is decaffeinated, so it doesn’t keep you up, but it also doesn’t dry out your skin: plus. All the chocolate eggs are crashing on you, and your rear is getting restless. This must be the big fashion show post.

You didn’t take notes on the show, but you remember that the music was really, REALLY, good. You also remember that it was Cinco de Mayo, and standing in line was not an option, so you sneaked in, and cursed at the first years sitting in the front row. That day was a national celebration, they should’ve been out boozing instead of standing in line sober.

Anyways, so you got a seat in the fourth row, and were able to see the details, and construction of the clothes. A lot of the collections were structured, very New York, but a mix of fabrics and textiles gave interest to the looks. There was silk and leather (Wong), latex, plastic, and burlap (Yoha), and silicon plastic, rayon, and bamboo (Williams).

Another theme was a dark outlook on the modern day fashions. Knitwear was huge as in ocean inspired layers (Mo Luo), and also a layered beauty in decay and life (Lilja).

But let’s not forget the fine sculpture artists who collaborated with the fashion peeps. Some stand out pieces were backpacks made of urethane rubber (Chavez), and recycled resin pieces resembling water (Barretto).

You’ve hit the main points of the show, and the birds are chirping outside your window. You feel accomplished, yet unsatisfied. This is only one final finished, 3 more to go. Huh, will it ever end? Will 2012 ever come? Will you dance until the world ends? Britney says yes. So let’s celebrate!

Do you feel the need to change your hair and makeup routine with each season? Why or why not?

Not necessarily. I wear what I feel like wearing, and then coordinate my makeup to the outfit. Plus, I don’t think wearing color during the fall/winter is going to kill you. Lighten up.

Do hair and makeup trends on the runway influence you, and encourage you to try them out on yourself? Is it successful?

Actually, they do. If I see something I like on the runway, then I’ll take the idea, and mold it into my style. But this usually only happens when I see hair and/or makeup trends that I REALLY really like. And yes, everything I do is successful.

Do you feel that the dramatic/extreme hair and makeup looks from the runway can easily translate to everyday?

Absolutely. In fact, I wish more people were daring and would just put on the whole image from the runway, from the hair, to the clothes. Wouldn’t life be much more exciting and pleasant with more interesting styles running around? Not to mention better looking…

Do you think the natural look of makeup is more compelling than the dramatic look? Why or why not?

Well, it depends on the colors you use, and how washed out the natural makeup is. Personally, I prefer the runway natural look compared to the Bare Escentuals natural look. There’s an alien quality to it, that’s more mysterious, and clean than the dramatic look.

Do you coordinate your outfit around your makeup/hair- or the other way around?

I coordinate my beauty category around my garment category. Why? Because 9/10, the outfit always comes first, but hair and makeup complete the whole look.

Do you feel that an eyeshadow color can inspire a whole outfit?

Who cares about the eyes when the mouth is where it’s at, Whoop! Whoop! Even though an eyeshadow color CAN inspire a whole outfit, that DOESN’T mean it should. I feel that makeup on the eyes is all the same, but adding color to the mouth can change the whole look entirely. The eyes are what people use to see, but the mouth is what people look at. So I hope you waxed!

Do you agree that getting a new hair cut can change your look? If so, how does it change your style?

Of course. The length of the hair can make you look younger or dreadfully older, pretty or frumpy, hip or boring. The shape of the cut can even sculpt your face or make it look chubbier. With this new look, comes a new attitude. A great cut can give you more confidence to try new things, or a new personal style. Basically, you need to accommodate this new cut into your lifestyle, and make sure it gives off the image that you want to portray.